Nice Matin

Open since April 2003, Nice Matin has lost none of its buzz; the restaurant was absolutely packed last night. And after just one bite of the fava bean tortelloni, I could see why. Our food was so appealing that even the picky eater among us forgot to be picky.

I chose Nice Matin because I was charmed to see a "Five-Napkin Burger" on the otherwise Provencal menu. This would be just the thing for our beloved picky eater, while I could order the grilled sea bass with olive-oil stewed artichokes.

The menu listed both hors d'oeuvres, like sardines and panisses, and larger appetizers. I knew that everyone would enjoy the panisses (chick-pea fritters cut in French-fry-like rectangles and served with garlic mayonnaise), but I had no idea how fast they would disappear! People who had never seen a garbanzo bean inhaled them, and soon it was time to order seconds.

The experience was repeated with the tortelloni. The plump pouches of noodle, each stuffed with a bit of green fava, were generously buttered and soon devoured. (This time, the picky eater ordered another round.) We also enjoyed a white bean and bacon soup, and a refreshing frisee, pear, orange and almond salad.

By now, I was half-stuffed, but it was time for our crowd-pleasing entrees: the aforementioned burger (sans Comte cheese), the classic steak frites (a giant piece of meat), and my delectable grilled sea bass, which was served on a bed of rich pureed potatoes and surrounded by olive oil-bathed artichokes.

No sooner had I finished the last bite that the dessert menu arrived. There were several flavors of homemade ice creams and sorbets, such as cinnamon and green apple. But I had my heart set on a more substantial dessert and mustered up my little remaining appetite to enjoy the gingerbread trifle and mascarpone mousse. It arrived in a lovely little parfait glass, which was soon emptied by... the picky eater.

Nice Matin: 201 West 79th St., (212) 873-6423.